Check these things if you've got a procharger

[jesseenglish]

OK after doing a quick check on things that could potentially go wrong/overlooked with an ATI supercharger install I'm posting this as a DIY check for those less mechanically inclined.

It will be several posts, so please wait until I'm finished to reply.

There are a couple things first off

#1 MAF plug crimped or stressed

#2 Aux Fuel pump positive lead not protected with insulation

#3 Fuel pump lines crimped and/or too close to the exhaust manifold

#4 Cog pulley/belt too close and rubbing on electrical connections

#5 Vacuum tree plugs working themselves loose

#6 Leaky/crimped boost sense and surge valve lines

[jesseenglish]

#1 MAF plug crimped or stressed

The MAF plug should be far enough away from the intake plenum to not be rubbing on it. Also you should be able to pull slightly on the wire insulation and have some play. It will probably be a little tight, but not too tight.

You also want to make sure that it does not get hit by the hood when closing. Check this by looking at your hood. Do you have any scratches where it would hit? Is there any paint on the connector?

[jesseenglish]

#2 Aux Fuel pump positive lead not protected with insulation

The positive wire on your fuel pump should have a good layer of electrical tape or something else around it. The last thing you need is for the positive lead to hit something metal, ground out and blow your FMU. Mine is a red wire, yours could be yellow. The negative, or black wire is not crucial because it's connected to your car frame anyways.

[jesseenglish]

#3 Fuel pump lines crimped and/or too close to the exhaust manifold


Couldn't get a picture of the intake line, because it's too dark down near the exhaust manifold, but I'll explain it.

Your Aux fuel pump basically has two lines. One goes up from the bottom of the car and the other goes to a device that looks like the pic below.

The line that comes up from the bottom of your engine should NOT be touching your exhaust manifold or exhaust manifold heat shield. Do whatever it takes to get this line away from there. I zip tied mine to another hose that is connected to the engine firewall. This will not only heat up your fuel causing potential vapor lock, but if the line gets burned through it will be shooting pressurized fuel all over a red hot engine. Not good if you value your car.

Fuel lines crimped: Ensure that all of your both of your fuel lines mentioned above are not bent at extreme angles. If they are, it might not cut of fuel entirely, but can decrease fuel volume to a point where your injectors run out of fuel and boom... Goodbye engine.

[jesseenglish]

#4 Cog pulley/belt too close and rubbing on electrical connections

On the cog belt depicted below, there is a wire that is very close to the cog pulley. Ensure this wire is zip tied away from the pulley so as not to rub.

This goes for all moving parts within the Procharger system. Look thorougly at all belts and pulleys. Ensure that nothing is even close to them to the point where they could wiggle their way to rub on it. It doesn't take long for a belt to rub through wire insulation or a rubber hose.

[jesseenglish]

The vacuum tree is here.

[jesseenglish]

#5 Vacuum tree plugs working themselves loose

There are 5 connections on the Vacuum tree

1. Big plug on the end

2. Smaller plug on the side

3. Boost sense line to FMU

4. Vacuum line to surge/bypass valve

5. Connection for hose that goes into intake manifold.

Obviously, tighten all of these plugs and hose connections up. I'd definitely take the plugs out and put some loctite or similar stuff on the threads and tighten them fully.

[jesseenglish]

#6 Leaky/crimped boost sense and surge valve lines

Good way to check if you have a vacuum leak within the vacuum tree as well as your boost sense and surge valve lines.

take off the hose that goes into the Intake plenum. the hose clamp is the one in the pic below.

Take that hose off and turn your key on. Blow into that hose. If you hear any air leaking try to isolate it. Also if you blow hard enough with your key on you should hear your aux fuel pump kick in.

If air leaks out fix the leak, if air doesn't leak out and the fuel pump doesn't kick in you've either got a crimped hose, blown fuse that connects the FMU to the battery, blown fuse for the cigarette lighter, bad fuel pump, or blown FMU.

Now suck on that hose, if you listen very carefully you should hear your surge valve open. The surge valve is located behind the bumper on the drivers side. It should be directly below your headlight. If you can't hear it, maybe grab someone to put their ear up to the bumper. If you suck hard enough and then release the pressure you should definitely hear it clunk back into its original position. Ensure that when you suck, the vacuum stays the same. What I mean is if you suck and then put your tongue to block the hole in the hose, you should not feel any lessening of vacuum suction on your tongue.

If you feel a lessening of pressure you've either got a loose connection, leaky hose or bad surge valve canister. If you don't hear anything at all your hose is probably crimped, or the bypass valve lever is being blocked from allowing the valve to open.

[jesseenglish]

This concludes my thoughts on things to check. If I confused anyone please let me know and I'll straighten out any confusion.

[Tere]

Once again, fantastic "Things to Check" write-up! :D

Ya done good! Now maybe we can get folks to use this checklist and keep from blowing up their engines! ;)

[Need4Speed]

hi jesseenglish,

Can you control the built-in bypass externally?
If so, maybe putting a self checking mechanism would help.
For example:

Easiest: If FMU has no power (or loses power), then bypass is enabled

Harder: If A/F reading is lean, then bypass is enabled

If you can't control the built-in bypass, then is
there space/place for an external bypass?

thanks,
rob

[jesseenglish]

There's no way to control the bypass valve that comes with the ATI system other than with a vacuum, but that's probably one of the best ideas I've heard in a long time.

The first idea shouldn't be too hard.

The second will be harder, but with an electronically controlled bypass valve it might be able to be done with a couple relays that run off of the raw voltage coming from my WBO2 setup. The higher the voltage, the more bypass it opens and if the WBO2 fails it automatically switches to a safe mode of completely open.

Now I've really got to do some research into exactly what voltage levels the WBO2 setup outputs. Depending on the voltage a 1:2 or 1:3 step up transformer would fix that. It's supposed to be used for monitoring with an oscilloscope so it probably doesn't have much amperage pushing it, but that can be fixed fairly easily.

I wonder if there's already a bypass valve designed to do that. I'm gonna go do some research.

Thanks for the idea.

[2003z]

great job Jesse! Hopefully you saved some people some major expenses!

[Tere]

The fail safe bypass valve idea is awesome! The ultimate protection if you're driving down the road and your FMU fails! ATI should have thought of this and incorporated it into the Procharger! Wowser... I think we have a potential market here for such a device! :D :D :D

[Dr Bonz]

If you build it, I will buy.

[Need4Speed]

hi jesseenglish,

If you can find an external bypass that can be
controlled by an electronic signal, then it's easy.

the car already has a o2 signal that you can use
a comparator against (for a voltage below ~.6v),
at which time it triggers a transistor or relay to
kick in the bypass.

If you really want to trigger the built-in bypass
(since it uses vacuum), then you need to add
a vacuum reservor, check valve, and a vacuum switch.
The transistor/relay would activate the vacuum switch
causing vacuum to be sent to the built-in bypass.

The second method is actually how many vacuum
actuated devices are driven in cars. Many mods
do this also (reference MEVI variable intake mod
for 4th gen maximas). You can pull all the parts needed
from any junk yard!

Finally, you can even turn this into a "valet mode" with
a $1.50 SPDT switch. Hint: one side goes to the o2 signal,
other side goes to ground. That way, in valet mode, it
always sees <.6v so it dumps boost all the time... :D

When the g35c ati kit finally ships, I'll probably do this to
mine (via the vacuum method, lots of old maximas and sentras
to take parts from)...

thanks,
rob

[Need4Speed]

only 1 chip ($2.25 at Jameco.com):

http://www.w8y2fun.com/images/ati_valet2.jpg

enjoy,
rob

[Dr Bonz]

I have NO IDEA what you guys are talling about, but KEEP DOING IT! I think it is amazing how you think this stuff through.

Jesse! Thanks again for the great write up. If you look under my Procharger thread, I discovered the worn wires from rubbing on the cog pulley probably AS YOU WERE WRITING AND TAKING YOUR PICS! I posted the pics of the worn wires and then suddenly your thread popped up!

BTW, does anyone know what those three wires are? Two of the three were completely worn through but nothing (that I could tell) wasn't working in the car.

[Tere]

This thread is so outstanding! Collaborative engineering and invention at work! We've got to make sure it doesn't get buried! What we've got going should be a necessity for any Procharged (and possibly other FI) 350. I love the "valet" switch idea, which would also work any time you don't want to run supercharged (bypass open and FMU shut off). This is great stuff!

Like Bonz said, you make it, and I'm in line to buy it! :D

I think we also learned from Bonz worn wire discovery, that everyone should closely check the installer's work. You can use the installation manual to double check all hoses, wires, and connections, as well as looking for Jesse's "gottchas." The watchword on the Procharger installation is fanatical attention to detail. ;)

[jesseenglish]

Bonz,

I posted in your experiences thread, but that goes to the Intake Valve Timing Solenoid which controls, obviously, Intake valve timing. Symptoms would probably be poor idle (because the engine is becoming unbalanced), poor performance (loss of torque), and possible backfiring.

[jesseenglish]

Another very important thing about the #6 check I described. If you do happen to discover a leak anywhere in your system, and then you fix it. That will change the boost your FMU sees.

So if you find a leak and fix it you WILL NEED TO GET YOUR CAR TUNED AGAIN for the new boost levels. Until then disconnect your cog belt so the SC won't spin, or I guess you could go back to the base settings as described on page 58 of the procharger manual, but bump the #1 slider up to 25% and put your scale setting at 11.

[racin]

Need4speed, we are already working on a modified version of your diagram, using a Reed relay and a different "vacuum switch" design. I'm also unsure as to the use of the upper check valve and vacuum line in your diagram. And, in your diagram, you have not taken into account a vent for the bypass valve (blow off valve) vacuum source once you have shut down the relay, unless you just did not draw in the port on the switch.
If you could email me at nick@ntechengineering.com , I would love to talk to you about what we are doing.

[Tere]

Geez... I love this thread! It's very cool to watch invention at work. I have a feeling we are going to see one terrific product, and you get to see it all happening right here on 350Z Frenzy! Awesome guyz! :D

[racin]

Need4speed, is the upper check valve and vacuum line in your diagram shown as a tie in to an existing bypass valve with the ProCharger kit? If so, it makes more sense to me why the two lines are there rather than one.
Our system design was going to be closed loop, incorporating its own blow off valve. Not having received our ProCharger system yet, we did not know what to expect, but if there is a way to tie in to something that already exists, then that would be the easier way to go.
Also, the valet switch is a terrific idea, and we would love to incorporate it with your permission. Another idea we had, inspired by your diagram was to have a temperature sensor input which could go in on the same line as the valet switch which would only allow boost to the engine once the engine has reached a pre-determined temperature. It would not be terribly difficult, though it would add a little complexity to the arrangement. Again, I'd love to speak to you more about this.

[jesseenglish]

Don't know if you need it, but here's a rough diagram of how the ATI system's air flows.

http://members.interfold.com/englishj/ATI%20diagram.jpg

[jesseenglish]

The only problem I see with your setup is that using a NB O2 sensor, the bypass is only going to kick in when AFR is leaner than 14.7:1 by then, it's too late. because our FI engine should be running at a fat 11 or 12:1

That's why I was planning on using my WBO2 setup to kick the bypass in gradually once it hits 2.0v or 13:1 AFR

[Need4Speed]

hi racin,

I don't have my g35c ati kit yet nor do I have the install instructions so my diagram near the built-in bypass is a
guesstimate based on jesse's descriptions.

You can call me at home 925-294-8001 if you want to talk
about it. I'm taking care of my newborn right now so I
tend to be up at night (like last night) but I have to do
everything with one hand so it's slow...

I'll take a look at the new postings and respond once I change
diapers and feed the kid... :rolleyes:

thanks,
rob

[Need4Speed]

racin:

1. you can use any NO 12v relay, reed should be fine.

2. if your vacuum switch is activated by a different voltage, then just change how the relay is wired. I based my design on
the OEM vacuum switch in maximas (and sentras). that way,
one visit to a junk yard and i have all needed vacuum parts.

3. racin, you are free to use my valet idea, and any of my other ideas on this thread. if you build it better, can i get a discount? :D

4. yes, the bypass in my diagram is the built-in bypass.
thanks to jesse's diagram: assume the "intake manifold"
in my diagram is the line from the vacuum tree.

jesse:

1. you can trigger off any voltage from 0v to 12v based on that
design with the addition on a pot and a regulator.

2. if you simply need to trigger anywhere beween 0v-1.25v, then
you just need to replace the 2.2k resistor between pins 6 and 7 with a 4.7k pot.

minor changes:

1. replace the 2.2k resistor between pins 7 and 8 with a much short so it can triiger a relay (currently setup to trigger an led which
can be good for testing,,,

finally:

1. its hard to type fast with 1 hand... :mad:

rob

[Need4Speed]

I've modified jesse's ati vacuum diagram
to include my vacuum switch gear...

http://www.w8y2fun.com/images/ati_vacuum_modified.jpg

oh, how I used to love going to junk yards when I was a kid...
too bad all the yards moved far away because of urban expansion...

anyone for a field trip in the bay area?!? to a yard that is... rob:cool:

enjoy,
rob

ps. I'll update my overview diagram next...

[Need4Speed]

offer:

I'll be happy to build this setup for you if you're willing to
help me install the ati kit. I have all the electronic parts at
home and the vacuum gear is a drive to a yard.

I'm in the bay area. Preferrably, you have experience installing
an ati kit. I also have the common garage tools. I really need
a second eye/brain to make sure everything is done right.
I was going to use a installer before this but with all the install
problems showing up, I'm worried...

thanks,
rob

ps. my contact info is: 925-294-8001 (home) and robert@rcreations.com_no_spam (remove the "_no_spam" from
the email address before use)

[racin]

My question about the ATI bypass valve is: What exactly is it bypassing? It looks as though it is in a normally closed position under vacuum. It would then open when it receives a positive pressure signal (boost) of more than 7 psi through the 'vacuum' line that is shown. In this condition it would need no check valve, and I assume from the ATI diagram that none is in place. I make these assumptions based on the fact that the FMU is receiving a signal from the same 'vacuum tree'. THis would essentially make the valve a pop-off valve.

If there is a check valve in place somewhere, I would love to know where it is located and what it allows to pass in which direction, because this would change the function possibilities.

If it is just a pop off valve, then we would need to incorporate a different valve.

[racin]

Need4Speed,
I understand exactly what you are saying now, thanks to your modified ATI diagram, but I see a problem. The bypass valve would have to close under boost, but it wouldn't be able to because of your check valve in the vacuum line going to it.

We need more info on what the bypass is doing and what vacuum and pressure it sees, how, and when. Working blind is providing no useful info. I am guessing that because the bypass valve is plumbed back into the intake air stream aft of the air filter, it is so that when the valve is open under vacuum, the air that is would be taking in to the throttle plates is filtered.

Anyone care to provide the bypass valve's functions?

[Need4Speed]

guys/gals,

I updated the circuit diagram with changes and have also
added a "Lean / Dumping Boost Warning LED"...

http://www.w8y2fun.com/images/ati_valet2.jpg

thanks,
rob

ps. refresh page if you dont see the new diagram...

[Need4Speed]

racing: jesse said that it vents under vacuum. here's my logic on why it shouldn't REQUIRE boost to stop venting.

1. if it required boost to stop venting, then it would never see boost since it's venting... the old chicken/egg thing...


So, my guess is that it only vents under vacuum.
Of course if ATI would send me the kit, I've been waiting for over 2 months, then I could confirm today!

rob

[jesseenglish]

Sorry if I didn't explain it completely. The Bypass valve is in a normally closed position except when it see's a vacuum. Don't know the specific vacuum pressures it sees, but as the SC spools up and overcomes the vacuum within the intake manifold it gradually closes.

If it sees no vacuum or positive pressure the bypass valve is closed allowing NO air to vent.

They designed it that way so when the throttle body is closed at high rpm, the intake manifold would once again see a vacuum and allow the bypass to open relieving pressure on the throttle plate.

[jesseenglish]

Originally posted by Need4Speed
offer:

I'll be happy to build this setup for you if you're willing to
help me install the ati kit. I have all the electronic parts at
home and the vacuum gear is a drive to a yard.

I'm in the bay area. Preferrably, you have experience installing
an ati kit. I also have the common garage tools. I really need
a second eye/brain to make sure everything is done right.
I was going to use a installer before this but with all the install
problems showing up, I'm worried...

thanks,
rob


I installed my own and would have no qualms about helping you do yours, but obviously there's a little bit of a distance between California and Colorado.

Originally posted by Need4Speed

1. you can trigger off any voltage from 0v to 12v based on that
design with the addition on a pot and a regulator.

2. if you simply need to trigger anywhere beween 0v-1.25v, then
you just need to replace the 2.2k resistor between pins 6 and 7 with a 4.7k pot.



That helps me out, but racin wants to build a universal bypass runnin off the stock NB O2, right?

NB O2's are not accurate except at stoich, at which point they simply switch between voltages above and below .45v (which are not linear voltages) The ECU measures the length of time it stays at each voltage, calculates an average and figures the AFR from there. It is not at all accurate anywhere, but close to stoich and like I said before. Our supercharged engines should not be running at or near stoich.

[racin]

Today's O2 sensors are not bad, and the operation that we are asking this circuit to carry out; throw a switch when there is a catastrophic change in the O2 readings, is fully within the realm of a stock O2 sensor. es, they are most accurate near stoic, but they work well enough to sense, quickly, if there is a wholesale change in the A/F ratio. Been tuning turbo rotaries for quite a whle, and we have been able to get pretty close using the stock O2, once you know what voltages to look for. Of course for fine tuning there is no substitiute for a true wide band O2 sensor.

Thank you for the bypass valve info. I think I have the function down now. Are there any check valves anywhere in the vacuum lines that are not shown in the diagram?

[jesseenglish]

Originally posted by racin

Thank you for the bypass valve info. I think I have the function down now. Are there any check valves anywhere in the vacuum lines that are not shown in the diagram?

No there aren't any check valves at all, the check valves in Need4Speed's diagram aren't there either. They would need to be installed.

BTW racin, when are you planning on getting this thing done for the masses?

[Jspec]

There is a company called dynotune that manufactuers a switch like you are talking about. It is used to turn off nitrous if the engine runs lean. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33740&item=2429136473 http://www.speedshop.org/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=67

[racin]

That is great info. I have contacted the seller to find out more about the unit, though it definitely needs more than what it comes with to work for us. Why re-invent the wheel, however. So, if this can save me some development time that I can use to concentrate on other things, it could be useful. If not, we will plug away at our version. I am lucky to have in my employ, a retired CIA electronics guy who is quite useful for things such as this.
Our projects are starting to back up due to a higher volume of shop work coming through, but we are trying to stay on top of it all. I'd say that once we actually receive the ProCharger from ATI, the work on this product will pick up quickly.

[Jspec]

Sounds great!! You should contact ATI and talk to them about devlopment. What you are talking about is more or less a saftey switch/valet switch. Your market is much bigger than just 350z users. This would apply to ever supercharger/turbocharger out there. This is a big market!!!!:D :D

[MaxHax]

What an outstanding write up pictorial man!

------------------
#1 MAF plug crimped or stressed

The MAF plug should be far enough away from the intake plenum to not be rubbing on it. Also you should be able to pull slightly on the wire insulation and have some play. It will probably be a little tight, but not too tight.

You also want to make sure that it does not get hit by the hood when closing. Check this by looking at your hood. Do you have any scratches where it would hit? Is there any paint on the connector?
---------------


When I picked my car up it was sticking straight up. It is keeping the hood from closing properly and this was duly noted by Nissan in writing. Man I wish I would have waited this totally sucks to be a pioneer of a new mod! I would not do this mod again after reading everything that has happened with these kits.
-----------------

[jesseenglish]

Thanks Max. The people doing it later will learn from our mistakes, good for them, not so good for us.

[Need4Speed]

oh my, can't wait to read through the instructions to see if
I should do it or have a shop do it (still would need a tuner
though). Now I really need to get all the parts ready and
find a place for the newborn for a new days. I'll post the
final fail-safe setup when done...

wish me luck,
rob

[jesseenglish]

Well, since the good doctor bumped his thread, I figured I'd bump mine. Not really, I actually had my first problem with the Procharger last night. I was cruising along at a good clip and all of a sudden I heard a loud bang come from my engine bay. I was like "Oh sh#t, now I'm really screwed". So, I pull over and the engine is still running fine. Weird, so I drove it home and parked the car. This morning I opened the hood and couldn't find any obvious problems. Everything was still bolted on ok, the engine was running fine. I ran a compression test and everything appeared normal.

So, since my car was a little bit torn into anyways, I've been meaning to recheck all of the bolts and fix a washer that I had installed incorrectly. I decided to pull the aluminum brackets off to check all of the bolts holding everything onto the engine. As I looked at the one of the cog pulleys, I notice there's not bolt in it.

It appears as though one of the pulley bolts worked it's way loose and that's more than likely the bang that I heard. This wouldn't be a problem except the little square key fell out too and as I drove the car home the pulley spun on the metal shaft it goes onto and tore up the metal inside. It appears as though I'm now going to have to order a new pulley. I'm gonna go buy some steel wool and see if I can salvage the parts, but I kinda messed up the pulley trying to get it off of the shaft. It tool like 1/2 hour of pounding with a hammer to get that thing off. It might as well have been welded in there.

Moral of the story kids, recheck the tightness on all of your pulley bolts and if you're not sure if there's loctite on the bolt, pull the bolt off an put some loctite on it.

Here's a pic of a normal shaft

[jesseenglish]

Here's a pic of the messed up side.

[jesseenglish]

Here's a pic of my messed up pulley. I'm hoping it's salvageable. If not, maybe it will be covered under warranty. I'll call them Monday, hopefully they'll be open, probably not since it's a federal holiday, but we'll see.

[Need4Speed]

jesse,

Sorry to hear about your pulley but thanks for the heads up.
I plan on doing routine checks on my car. At least nothing
happened to your engine since you just probably lost boost.

rob

[Dr Bonz]

Jesse:

Thanks man. I'll check those as soon as I get home from work tonight. I think it's great how we Z (and Procharger) owners look out for each other! :)

[Daddy Z]

Not sure if this has been mentioned? You all might want to check the main blower hose going from the SC to the engine. If there are any air leaks then the amount of boost = hp is going to be less then possible.

In my case the leak was there from the get-go, but the installer swore all was perfect even though my car sounded like a leaf blower under boost. Turns out I was only getting about 2 pounds of boost max. It was a big difference one the hose was properly clamped on. The rwhp went from 250 to 343 and then up to 373 after proper tuning.

[jesseenglish]

Well, good news. Procharger is gonna cover it under warranty and I already got an RMA number for return. Gonna ship this thing out today Fedex and hopefully should have a repacement by the end of the week.

[racin]

Good info to pass along. I have checked all of the bolts for tightness prior to installation.
We tried it on track this weekend, and even after cutting two huge holes in the nose, it still was running the engine too hot. So, we will be searching out a cooling solution for track driving. That seems to be the only issue so far. We put 500 break in miles on, and when we changed the oil it looked very nice. Discolored as indicated, but there were no pieces in the oil like Dr. Bonz pictures. So far, so good, though we will be trying to improve on the installation instructions a bit if we decide to become a seller of the kit. Install took 17 hours to do it carefully and correctly.

[westpak]

Great to see you have yours on, did you end up replacing the bearings as you had thought originally?

Any additional goodies installed? Guages, meters.......

[racin]

No, I did not do anything to this unit. I felt as though I had to trust ATI, and I didn't want to void the warranty on something that I had some fears about.

Right now it seems that the unit is running fine, though it needs to be fine tuned yet. We were careful with the install, and it seems to have paid off.

I'm currently trying to find a place to install four gauges, of which three are SPA dual digitals. I have one for fuel pressure and voltage, one for oil temp and oil pressure, and one for water temp and EGT temp. Then I have my SPI boost gauge. Problem is that I have so many other commitments to concern myself with, that the car has to take a back seat at the moment so I can get other products buttoned down and brought to market.

[jazz z1]

I have a question for 'jesseenglish':
Does the bypass valve serve the same function as the 'blow-off valve in the turbo system?

[jesseenglish]

It's basically the same thing, except the bypass valve vents the boost back into the intake whereas a BOV vents to the outside atmosphere.

[Need4Speed]

My blower was vibrating slightly at idle (~650rpm).
Since the G35C kit's blower is right up against the
radiator, I could feel the vibration throught my shoes.

Turns out the main cog belt (front) and the cog belt
When you tighten the smaller cog belt (back), it actually
loosens the main cog belt (front) so you need to check
both belts after they are both installed...

thanks
rob

ps. I also developed a squeal after 40 miles but it was
fixed after tightening up the V belt (already posted by
others but I thought I would confirm it as well)...

[jesseenglish]

MaxHax on 350zMotoring brought up a good point. Take a look at this thread

http://350zmotoring.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4419

The cog belt should probably go under the tensioner pulley to reduce belt noise. I'm going to try it out on mine when I get my damaged pulley back and report on any changes in belt noise.

[jesseenglish]

Here's a pic for easier viewing.

Need4Speed, glad you figured out the vibration problem, when you get some pics, I'd love to see the G35 setup.

[racin]

Yes, the correct configuration for the belt is the way it is shown in the picture above. You always put the smooth portion of the belt on a smooth idler pulley.

[Dr Bonz]

Jesse: This thread needed a good bumping!

Did you guys ever complete your invention of the failsafe bypass valve thing you were drawing schematics for?

[jesseenglish]

No, never did finish it because Techedge still hasn't modified the Nordskog A/F gauge to work with the wideband setup. I sent them the gauge 6 months ago. I really should start harassing them about that. I totally forgot about it.

Without that though, I can't do jack.

[Need4Speed]

I decided not to do the failsafe idea as planned.
Didn't want any sudden lose of power (especially during turns).
Instead, I simply sound a $3 buzzer when there is boost
and it's lean. It actually also works as a "closed loop" detector.

If I hear a beep on low throttle, then I put a little more gas
and it goes away. It's really needed if you changed your
compressor bypass valve. I'm using a valve that closes earlier
and has a tight seal. The beep sort of reminds me of my old
rx7 tt.

I'd recommend this buzzer approach rather than doing the
full actuator...

thanks,
rob

ps. no another topic, here's an idea to get more boost down
low (to make up for the stillen adv) WITHOUT running higher
boost (7psi max).

1. add a mechanical external wastegate set to 7 psi MAX
2. get 9 psi belt/pully from ATI or get underdrive pulley

You should need higher boost throughout the rpm band
but without exceeding 7 psi (for safety). I'd do the cbv
first though...

3. If you really want to get control, add a boost controller
so you can vary your boost in the car, on the fly...

[Tere]

The 9 pound pulley with a boost controller is a great idea! It would save wear and tear by running around on low boost except when you need high boost. I've got the GReddy boost controller on my 300ZX and love it -- punch high boost and instant 14.5 psi. Hmmm... off to the drawing board... ;)

[Rickmeister]

Jesse,
i take it your running a 6 speed and not the A/T. Have you seen or heard and S/C that work w/ the 5 speed A/T's. Really would like to get a S/C but have heard that they don't play well with the A/T's

[jesseenglish]

Originally posted by Rickmeister
Jesse,
i take it your running a 6 speed and not the A/T. Have you seen or heard and S/C that work w/ the 5 speed A/T's. Really would like to get a S/C but have heard that they don't play well with the A/T's

Problems with the 350Z AT tranny is not really an issue of which supercharger to use, but more of the tranny itself. Apparently the Z tranny has issues with the amount of torque that a supercharger can create. The only real solution would be to modify the torque converter and/or changing shift points via the ECU.

From what I've heard the Z tranny will shift fine when manually shifting as opposed to just sticking it in "D". I don't have first hand experience with this however, because I've never driven or even sat in an AT 350Z. As a matter of fact, I've never owned a car with an automatic.